Tag Archives: blog

Doing the Atlantic, Chapter 3, Navigating Iberia Airlines check-ins was more challenging than navigating the Atlantic.

Tuesday, January 25, 2022

Dennis and I are on the second leg of our trip from Madrid to Lanzarote, it’s a very full flight. 

What a cluster fuck getting out of Boston was. Both Dennis and I arrived at Logan Airport early; Dennis via a bus out of Portland, Maine. I was lucky enough to have my wife Colleen and our son Shane drop me off. It was really special, Shane was obviously anxious about my leaving on this adventure. He followed me into the Airport, waited with me for a while until it was time for him and Colleen to leave, they had to pick our daughter Cate up at dance and bring her to gymnastics. I really appreciated the extra time with him, he may actually end up okay.

Shane and Cate on our friends boat Glory.

Back to the cluster fuck, Dennis showed up right after Shane and Colleen left. We went up to the Iberia departures counter and presented our passports to the attendant, who was going through the process of checking us and our bags in when she asked us “When are you returning to the United States?” Our response was truthful- we didn’t exactly know. We explained that we were sailing from Lanzarote to Guadeloupe and our exact day was not known, we knew approximately when we would return, just not the exact day. This put a stop to our check in process. The first attendant handed our information off to her, unbeknownst to us at the time, supervisor. A short-round-bitchy faced-beastly wench, I am not going to be nice when describing her, she seemed to not be paying attention to anything else but her cell phone. 

She asked us if we had any proof of our planned return to the United States. I produced our Capitan’s Letter, a letter written by the captain of a yacht describing the planned itinerary of a vessel for this exact reason. I have used such letters in the past, specifically in Bermuda, twice, where the customs officials knew exactly what the letter was, and it quickly fulfilled their requirements. Well, the beast, an airline employee, not a customs official, said that she couldn’t accept the letter as proof of departure and that we had to buy return tickets if we were going to be allowed to get on our planned flight to Spain. Just like that, no help or understanding in trying to help us out. She just went back to banging her Knockwurst fingers on her cell phone. 

Mary’s fingers

She was just ignoring us, that was not going to work. After a bit more ka-bitching, Dennis reminded her of what he thought her role as a customer service professional was. While I was just fuming, I don’t think I could have said much at the time, though I did ask her if she was doing something to help us on her phone or if she was purposely ignoring us; she grunted. Dennis told her that we were trying to figure it out calmly and that she should be helping us. After asking to talk to her supervisor, with no luck, she said she was the supervisor, which she may have been. But what she really was, was a stubby, overzealous queen wannabe with a Napoleon complex, on a power trip. Dennis asked for and got her name. She told us, spelling it out: “Mary Pama”. Yes, she pronounced it Mary Palmer, I hope her 4 sisters were more palm worthy than she was. (I said that I wasn’t going to be nice, she really infuriated us). We also asked for the phone number for customer service, and we were dismissively told to “look on the website”. 

We stood in front of the check-in kiosk. Dennis phoned the customer service number, went through the prompts and eventually got through to a representative who only spoke broken English, tried to explain the situation. He was asked for our confirmation code, after about 6 attempts in English and Spanish he put Dennis on hold, and subsequently hung up on him.

Meanwhile, Mary-the-Beast-Pama, asked if we had a Sea Log or a Crew Identification Card. So her chunky little digits were, in her own special way, looking into how to help us out. However, Sea Logs and Crew Identification Cards are for paid crews on ships, not things that an unpaid crew member on a private yacht would have. I explained this to her while Dennis tried to get through to the customer service number without being hung up on again. It didn’t work, he was hung up on again, even quicker this time.

In a moment of desperation I asked Mary-the-Beast-Pama if we bought return tickets from Guadeloupe would she let us board, and surprisingly, she said yes. While Dennis started making his third try at customer service, I used my handy Expedia app and bought 2 tickets from Guadeloupe to Boston on February 26, a somewhat arbitrary day, we will probably be in Guadeloupe by then, but, you never know. I bought tickets that I can cancel within 24 hours or we can change fights if we decide to. I figured- get through customs in Spain and just cancel the tickets, no one would be the wiser. Mary-the-Beast-Pama can go fuck herself.

Once I showed Mary-the-Beast-Pama the proof of purchase for the tickets on my phone she let us check-in. All this because the dimwitted 5X5 didn’t have any common sense. What is the point of having someone buy a ticket from a different country than the one that you are entering, the proof should have been for as she originally asked- when are you leaving Spain, not when are we leaving Guadalupe. Her lack of real logic was dumbfounding. The Captain’s Letter was our proof, she claimed that she wouldn’t allow it, however in a way, I guess she did.

~

So we got through, and had a few Maine Beer Co. Lunch IPA’s at the airport lounge before boarding. Dennis had the pleasure of handing his ticket to Mary-the-Beast-Pama his boarding pass. It was an uneventful flight to Madrid, when we went through Customs, where there are real customs agents, we explained to the agent what we were doing, within a minute he was waving us though, welcoming us to Spain.

It was too much unnecessary stress caused by someone who’s only responsibility should have only been to very nicely direct us to the proper official for any clarification on our planned trip. Even better would have been, to address any customs issues when we purchased one-way tickets.

Our brother Steve met us at the Madrid Airport for coffee during our layover. During which time I went back on the Expedia app and canceled our return flights.

Often times the best solutions are the easiest ones.

On to better experiences.

Doing the Atlantic- Chapter 1, Am I available?

This is the first chapter in a multi-part blog about me fulfilling one of my life’s ambitions- sailing across the Atlantic Ocean.

I wrote this journal as things unfolded, I started writing at home soon after Captain John’s initial email. I continued writing throughout the planning, while on planes, at the house we rented in Lanzarote, daily on Avocet as we sailed across the Atlantic, in Guadeloupe, and finally at back at home again. I wrote this because I wanted an unedited fresh as-it-happened memory of one of my life long ambitions- to sail an ocean. Read along, I hope you enjoy reading about my experience, parts of which are thrilling, some are boring, many are exhausting and a couple of them are even a bit scary.

Atlantic Ocean Crossing

January, 29, 2022 – February, 21, 2022

S/V AVOCET

John Slingerland- Captain / Boat Owner
Jens Bergen- Crew
Dennis McCarthy- Crew
Peter McCarthy- Crew

AVOCET:

https://www.britannica.com/animal/avocet

Any of several large shorebirds belonging to the genus Recurvirostra, family Recurvirostridae. Avocets have boldly contrasting plumage, long bluish legs, and a long black bill upturned at the tip.

Wikipedia

https://g.co/kgs/mH4R3L

The four species of avocets are a genus, Recurvirostra, of waders in the same avian family as the stilts. The genus name comes from Latin recurvus, ‘curved backwards’ and rostrum, ‘bill’. The common name is thought to derive from the Italian word avosetta. 

John Slingerland’s Avocet is a 1988 Oyster 41 Sailing Yacht-

https://oysteryachts.com/heritage-yachts/oyster-sj41/

According to the Oyster Yachts website there were 27 of these Stephen Jones designed yachts made from 1980 through 1987. Which is not quite accurate, the placard on Avocet claims that she was built in 1988, a year after the production dates stated on their website. The placard also states that Avocet is hull #23 (of 27), built by Landamores Yacht Builders in Norfolk, England.

Saturday, January 1, 2022

Last week I got an unexpected email from John Slingerland, owner and captain of the sailing vessel Avocet, a 1988 Oyster 41, “I may have a spot open departing Canaries 1/15 to Guadeloupe”.  Which I responded- “I will run it by the boss, get a feel for how she feels about it. I will try to get back to you tomorrow”. I did talk to Colleen and kids about it, and they felt, as I did, the timing was perfect. EVOO one of our restaurants was, due to COVID, still closed, we were well staffed and there was nothing too important that I would miss at home. I didn’t have too much going on, I could make this work. I was very excited and hopeful to get the opportunity to cross the Atlantic, WHOOP, WHOOP! 

Fuck yeah, I was available! Crossing the Atlantic has always been a dream of mine. I would even call it- as my wife Colleen gives me a “what the fuck are you talking about” eye roll- a “bucket list” item. I, like every other sailor, has dreamed of crossing an ocean.

A couple of days later I received another email from John- “In regard to the January 15 planned departure, one of the other planned crew had to bow out, and another is only 50/50, and in a watch and see mode. All understandable, all COVID related issues. This is a tidal wave that is lifting (or sinking) all boats in hopefully only the short term”.

I thought- Sucks for them, great for me!

With the all of the previously planned crew bowing out, John needed to shore up his crew for the longest leg of his “North Atlantic – Western Mediterranean circumnavigation”. He reached out to Jens Bergen, a longtime Avocet crew member, who had already done several of the other “circumnavigation” legs with John. He also asked me to see if my brother Dennis was available; which I did. Jens was in as long as we left after January 24. Dennis, after work and family consultations, was also available. I am elated to not only do this trip, but to have the opportunity to do it with my brother and long-time sailing partner Dennis will make this trip even more special.

Before we got to 4 committed crew members, John had floated the idea of going with 3, we were all so amped about crossing the Atlantic that we readily and ignorantly agreed, if that was the case, to go with it.

Now with the crew set, we now had just over three weeks to mentally and physically prepare for the trip.

~

John is in the process of bringing Avocet back to the U.S. after a stint of sailing and exploring the northern Mediterranean; Portugal, Croatia, Greece, Montenegro, Albania, Italy and Spain were some of his ports-of-call. Avocet spent a year “on the hard” in Montenegro due to COVID-19. As soon as the travel restrictions were lifted John spent the summer and fall re-fitting Avocet. And with the help of various crew, including his wife Marcia and Jens Bergen, he began the trip from Montenegro back to his home port in Boothbay, Maine. He made stops in Sicily, Sardinia, Mallorca and Gibraltar before, in October, Avocet made it to Lanzarote, where she is once again “on the hard” getting a few minor repairs and an insurance survey.

~

I have sailed with John before, a delivery from Blue Hill, Maine, to Beverly, Massachusetts, in 2015. The Marblehead – Halifax Ocean Race in 2017, as well as the first and probably shortest leg of his trip to the Mediterranean in 2017 from Beverly, Massachusetts to Newport, Rhode Island. I have found John to be a very knowledgeable, passionate sailor, a solid captain, an affable watch companion and an inspiration to my sailing aspirations.

In my opinion Avocet is a gem, she is well laid out- with wide teak decks, a solidly built typical ’80s racer/cruiser hull design- wide beam, small transom, shortish waterline and a low free-board. Below decks she is all class, teak everywhere, a sea-berth, handholds where they are needed, 2 heads, ample storage and a feeling of seaworthiness. All in all, Avocet was made to do exactly what John was using here for- long distance ocean passages, with some coastal cruising to quiet anchorages or to hip lively marinas.

~

When John sent out emails looking for crew for all of the different legs of his Mediterranean excursion, I tried to join in. Unfortunately, for my sailing life, I was way too busy with the other aspects of my non-sailing life to be able to figure out how I could get some time onboard during the first half of the trip from Maine to the Mediterranean. I did get myself on as part of the crew for the last leg of his trip from Bermuda to Maine. That trip is still scheduled for May, 2022; hopefully I will still be able to make that happen.

~

When I got John’s email, because of COVID 19, my current work situation is very different than it was 3 years ago when John was initially looking for crew members. I, with the help of my wife and business partner, Colleen, own and operate 3 restaurants, Which due to the pandemic we have temporarily closed one of them and drastically changed how we do business in the other 2. These actions, though they suck in many ways, have given me more free time than I have ever had as a working adult, and it’s blissful; I hope to never go back to 70 hour work weeks again. In my free(r) time I have not only spent more time with my wonderful family, which I would never give back, we have had a great couple of years. I also have upped my sailing, this past summer I sailed quite a bit on my friends’ and neighbors’- Tom and Mary Mitri’s boat, Glory, a 1988 Mason 44, which like Avocet, is a well built, ocean capable, late 1980’s boat. We sailed around Buzzards bay a few times and did a delivery up to Camden, Maine. I also Sailed on Alliance, a J-122 out of Newport, Rhode Island, doing several practice sails as well as the Stamford-Vineyard race, a 240 mile race from Stamford Connecticut to Martha’s Vineyard and back. So, John’s email came at the right time, I can take the time off. Colleen, knowing my love of sailing and my ocean crossing dreams, quickly gave me her blessings to do it. Keep in mind she and our kids will lovingly give me shit for abandoning them for a month for the rest of my life; I’m thinking it will be worth it.

Glory
Alliance